Ooty to Mysore - Finally we get into 'Pace' formations over the next 2 days

The rest day in Ooty gave plenty of time to everyone to recuperate including me. We had cycled 500kms in 4 days and climbed over several hills and mountains. Many took the rest day to just stay in to heal their wounds, clean their bikes and chill while few ventured out into the town for the look out for chais and coffees with other riders. I heard that a few also went running to highest point in Ooty. I decided to spend my time with my family. There was already a sense of sadness among many riders that TFN was coming to a close. One of the highlights for me has been the opportunity know other cyclists from India. I think it is fair to say that I have made many friends. The day began late to give time for the fog to disappear from the notorious Kalghatti ghats. The descend is a fast 1200 dive in 14 kms through 36 hair pin bends. It is definitely not for the faint-hearted. Even my driver warned me against the dangers of the ghat and I was getting a little too worried about it, not so much for myself but other inexperienced cyclists in the group. During the briefing it was made very clear to all that if not sure take the TFN vehicle and then continue with the ride after the descent. Everyone was reminded to check their brakes and given tips to negotiate the fast descend. 

At around 8.30 am we left the hostel guided by a pilot vehicle to the beginning of the ghat. We grouped again before the descent and the MTB riders were asked to go first in small groups followed by the road bikers. Quite a few took the advice to travel by car. I chose to ride cautiously often stopping to make sure everyone was safe. I could not resist the temptation to look at the peaks we were leaving behind. I was in no mood to get out of the mountains so soon and at every scenic bend I stopped with a few others to take pictures and crack jokes.

 There were several statistics posted to remind travelers of the casualties over the years. It did not take long for the riders to finish the descent and we all regrouped once again. More reminders were given out to the cyclists that Bandipur national park laid ahead and stopping or loitering in the park was prohibited. Last time I visited the park I was in my early teens and my memory of it was very faint. I decided not to rush thru it. After riding about 20kms in the company of Samim and Dipanker, I slowed down to ride with Nachiket, Shantanu and George. Shantanu apparently was struggling on Day 5 with some ligaments problems and I started to wonder if the 4 days of cranking on those big ratios finally had taken a toll. Shantanu could not keep the pace; we stopped a support car to stay with him and the rest of us regrouped to ride through the park together. The park was beautiful with lush green rolling terrain, a few short but heart busting climbs followed by long descends. We spotted several wild boars, monkeys and an elephant with her calf. We continued to ride slow but at a constant pace. It was very hot after 2 days spent on the top of Ooty where the temperature frequently dipped into the single digits. I was feeling on top of my game, the worst was behind me and I was happy. Soon we crossed into Karnataka. 

Stats –  Distance - 58 kms

Time – 2 hr 20 mins 

Avg Speed – 25km/hr 

Avg HR – 121 bpm

We have been briefed earlier in the day that the roads were just not rideable between Bandipur and Gundalpet. We knew we were close to the bad roads, so we decided to pull over under a massive banyan tree to enjoy some coconuts. More cyclists started to follow with support cars. Jokes followed with several taking their cameras out. It was truly relaxing. Several cyclists were still in the car as they had decided to ride from Gundalpet to Mysore. 

After gulping down some refreshing coconut 

water we rode a few kms when the ride came to sudden halt with the road transforming into a sea of potholes. There was only one support car but several cyclists. So the TFN volunteers halted a passing empty truck and several of us jumped on the back with our bicycles. The roads were totally absent and even standing on the back of the truck was impossible, many including me chose to sit down holding on to our bikes for a 30 min rollercoaster into Gundulpet. The dusty town of Gundalpet arrived as a respite and we quickly gathered at a Udipi restaurant for lunch. It was half past one in the afternoon, the sun was soaring and I was in no mood to ride. I suggested that we rode out of town, pick up a shady spot and rest. We knew Mysore was only another 60 odd kms, a 2 hour ride. We took some time to just lie in the shade by the side of the road under some trees. Not many were in the mood to rest and one by one they are stared to leave. Samim, Dipanker and Nachi were left with me and even we decided to leave eventually. Much of the tour there was not much group riding involved and pace formations were totally absent. Samim suggested that we try to ride in a pace line and I was more than happy to hear that keeping in mind that we were riding into a strong head wind!

After a few kms warming up the pace kicked within the group even if quite moderate between 30 and 50km/hr. each one of us took our turn at the front and it all felt pretty easy and comfortable. We quickly passed everyone who had left earlier and we were all set to reach Mysore before 6 pm. One funny incident I recollect during that ride is that one tractor carrying a ton of hay passed us on the right. The width of the vehicle pushed us off the road and by the time I recollected myself my helmet and jersey was filled with straws of hay! It was an absolutely smooth ride with the sun low in the west. As we got close to Mysore the traffic picked up, the pace dropped and we decided to regroup with all the riders at a tea joint. The realization that the tour was pretty much coming to an end was immense on the mind of the riders and everyone took time to chat and bond with others riders. We later rode together into Mysore.

Stats Distance- 57km 

Time – 1 hr 50 mins 

Avg Speed - 30 km/hr 

Avg HR - 131 bpm

Sultanbatteri to Ooty - the highlight stage!!

The day began early for me with my wife reporting at 2 in the morning that I had fever! I went back to sleep almost convinced that my tour was over. At 5.30am my alarm rang and I felt absolutely miserable and I returned to sleep. At 6 15 am I woke up again as I just could not believe that I had traveled all the way from the US to lie in bed and that too on the only day of the tour that mattered. The fear of regret took the better of me. I woke up and jumped into the shower and tried to dress up. My wife who understood me well told me to give the day a shot and she promised to support me from the car. When I came down with my bike I realized that I was the only one ready to go while everyone else had decided to take it easy after the gruesome stage the day before. Breakfast was not available and the TFN organizers were trying to arrange for it at the Windflower hotel. It was well past 7.30am and I was more than happy to buy time. After a really good breakfast it was time for the usual briefing and it was made clear that if you struggled on the first climb then just wait downhill at Gudular to get sweeped to Ooty. I pretended to listen to it  During the briefing I gave a few tips to other riders on climbing and soon I was all set. Dr Renu who had been fantastic all through out the tour made sure that I had ‘electrol’ in my bottles. It was time to go. A large crowd had gathered to look at the departure of TFN cyclists. I had a made a simply strategy for the day. SURVIVAL was the key, no halts, good rhythm and to preserve the energy for the Ooty climb. We all started as a group and the rolling terrain within the first 5 kms already broke the group and soon it looked like everybody was on their own. You could make out that you were in Kerala as the vehicles drove ruthlessly. After passing through a small strip of forestland soon we reached the TN border and with it started small climbs through beautiful Tea estates. The terrain was still rolling. The three wheelers turned from black to yellow. The roads improved along with the scenery and it had all prospects of a fantastic ride.

Within 40 mins into the ride I knew that only

 2 riders were in front of me and those were the usual suspects Samim and Dipanker. The temptation to catch them was high but my condition was playing on my mind and I kept telling myself to control any adrenalin rush. I intentionally started to look around and bask in the beauty of the landscape. I even stopped to take a photograph or two! I usually never think much when I ride but the beauty of the landscape was so immense that I was actually getting fearful of the day getting over sooner than later. The greens of the tea plantations and the blues of the sky almost seemed exaggerated! I looked at my Garmin and I was still riding at a modest 25km/hr. My HR was well settled in my zone 1-2 and the climbs did not seem as hard as it was made out to look during the briefing. One thing that was constantly bothering me was the bitter taste in my mouth, I just could not figure what it was and later I discovered from the doctor that it was the reaction of the antibiotics. I kept gulping down the electrol and at times even gargling my mouth with it. 

Soon I was on top the first climb for the day and a long descend lied ahead to Gudular. The view from top was out of this world and I kept telling myself that this was easily the best rides I had even done in my life. The mountains of Ooty stood right in front like a massive wall with the peaks covered with clouds. Are we really supposed to climb that, seemed unreal? The descend to Gudular was fast, very fast. The few hairpin bends almost caressed my knees on the turns. The few passages thru small intersections was furiosly fast. My blue Italian jersey caught the attention of the bystanders and I was breezing thru them giving the locals a few secs to glimpse

At Gudular I started to look around for Samim and Dipanker but they were not to be seen. I turned my attention to find TFN vehicles and even they were absent. The town was buzzing with Ayyappa pilgrims. The loud speakers played sacred songs and there was a festive mood in that little town. I refueled myself at a local shop, took a gel or 2. The glimpse of the peaks of Ooty almost sent a shiver down the spine. Within a few hundred meters I was already climbing to Ooty. The climb was 6-7 %. Not much but you had 40km of it! I decided to ignore the distance and focus on the altitude I was climbing. The altitude on my Garmin noted 980m.The first few kms through settlements did not give an idea of the altitude but as soon as the landscape opened up you were treated with the best views of the valley. A car appeared from behind and it was my wife and son. My son just kept shouting 'go dad go'! I gave a quick update to my wife on how I was feeling, the excitement and adrenalin was pumping in my body and feeling pretty good. My heart rate was still well settled at 70%. I ate some food on the bike and I was going to stick to my plan of not stopping till I reached Ooty. My wife told me that she would be around in the car if I faced any difficulty. The altitude was slowly but consistently getting higher and I was already up 1300m. After every few kms I would find my wife snapping away with the camera and my son still shouting at me!

Soon I reached one of the most beautiful locations thru the Eucalyptus plantations. It was just bizzare! I will post a photograph as I am not the best with words. I started to hear sounds of heavy breathing and I looked behind to find Saurabh had caught me. He was climbing well. One thing that pushes my adrenalin to extreme levels is to see a cyclist pass me. I had to eat my ego and let him go. This was not a race. There was still around 30kms of climbs left and I was going to stick to my strategy. After a few kms I saw my wife coming downhill with the car worried that something had happened to me. She was surprised to see a cyclist had passed me and thought I had either stopped or something bad had happened. I calmed her and continued with my task of climbing.

 

The scene only got better and the vast manicured tea plantations were a sight to relish. My garmin indicated that I was well above 1600m. The support vehicles started to appear. I got a briefing of who was climbing and who was not. There was Venky and iggy who had just reached the foothills and many had decided not to climb including my brother. Venky had sent the support car to get a gel from me. I passed one and instead took some almonds and other nuts in return. Pradeep told me that there was only 10kms to go and a text message from my wife confirmed it. With 10 kms to go I decided to step on the gas. Venky's car soon appeared behind me and that gave me extra confidence to have a crack at the last 10-15 kms. The last 15-20 kms was climbed at an avg of 20km/hr. The support vehicle stayed with me right till the end and at the end of the ride Giri who was driving the car was so mesmerized by staying behind my wheels that he just could not stop talking about it!! They had been entertained ☺. I thought it was so funny and I was still able to hold a laugh. I had accomplished what I came for. I was standing on top of Ooty at 2200m! 

Inside me it was not about climbing Ooty, I knew I could climb Ooty, I also wanted to do it within decent time frame. I had a set a target of under 4 hours before TFN so under the circumstances 4hr15 was not all that bad. Later Shantanu joined in and we rode together to find the hostel. I was happy, very happy. One of the best rides of my life under the circumstances! The scenes from Sultanbatteri to Ooty was unparalleled to anywhere I have ridden before. 

Mercari – Sultanbatteri

The day to forget!! The day started with 6 visits to the toilet in a span of 30 minutes and by the time I was done with it, Dr Renu had put me on antibiotics. I was advised to take rest and stay off the bike. I took the advice and went back to my room. Though after viewing cyclists gearing outside my window the temptation to ride had the better of me and within minutes I was down in my jersey. I decided to take it easy after 2 intense days and just ride my way to Sultan Batteri. I knew it was a tough day. The initial plan was to ride the first 45kms to Gonikoppal. The 40kms stretch after that to the border was bad and that would give me a chance to rest by hitching a drive. I was one of the last to leave the guesthouse in the company of my brother and luckily the ride started with a downhill. Once the uphill started we began to pass most riders. It seemed to me that the fatigue was catching with most riders and everybody had decided to take it slow. I decided to give my odometer a break for the day!

The roads were extremely scenic and the slower pace was just right to indulge in it. The rolling terrain with rice fields on the both sides surrounded with palm trees was the perfect backdrop for someone on antibiotics! We passed over a few bridges with rivers streaming past below and we stopped on one to oblige the TFN photographers and bloggers to get a snap or two. Small trails branched out to smaller villages, my mind followed those trails while the rest of me was still very much on the tarmac road. Several long fast descends added to the excitement only to realize that at the end of the turn you were hanging on to your brakes and life to avoid crashing into the biggest potholes you could find. After the first 2 days of big highways and bigger roads the smaller rural roads were an absolute delight. We were greeted to the village of Gonikopal with chalk marks on the roads to guide us thru the town. Most cyclists arrived together. I helped myself to the gas station toilet for the 7th time and I was left without fluids in my body. Both my bike bottles were filled with Electrol and by the time I reached the 45km mark I had consumed quite a few bottles. I decided to put my bike in the car and give the bad roads a pass. As more riders arrived the discussion to ride the bad patch or not started with a few willing to brave it out. 

Riders who were ahead on those patches had reported that roads were not all that bad. It was not the condition of the road that bothered me, it was width of the road. Two vehicles could not pass at the same time and if you were riding at that time, where do you go? As I passed those roads in my car I felt it was dangerous for the riders. The road for the most part was not more than 8 feet in width and the sides of the road had a deep gradient of atleast a feet or more leading into very rough patches of stones. The vehicles were passing at their best speeds and I was happy to stay in my car.

We crossed the border into Kerala and soon dense forest and an elephant immediately greeted us. I was starting to feet drowsy due to the antibiotics and soon I feel asleep. I was later awakened by sounds of numerous vehicles in the border town where TFN cyclists had stopped to have lunch. As soon as I got out of the car I could not practically stay on my feet and the severity of my condition set in. I felt I was totally dehydrated to my bones with severe headache. I quickly had lunch with other cyclists and decided to call it off for the day and head to Sultanbatteri in my car. I shared the table with my brother, Ulhas and another cyclist. Ulhas was really indulging in the kerala cuisine served on a banana leaf and asking for all kinds of translations. It was a pleasure to have lunch with him. I left the restaurant very worried for the rest of my tour as the Ooty climb was waiting the next day.  After lunch I slept in the back of the car and headed straight to Sultanbatteri hoping to find a good room and take some rest. My sleep was interrupted by a phone call from my brother who reported that Ulhas had crashed his bike and had hurt himself. I was very upset to hear it and it really sent me shivering. I quickly got on the phone and frantically called Dr Renu to get more updates and was a little relieved to hear that they had brought him to the hospital. I reached Sultanbatteri exhausted mentally and physically. I got myself the first room and stayed in the bathroom for the rest of the evening!! A quick visit later to the TFN hotel to meet Ulhas and others in the evening and a dinner at the restaurant brought an end to a dismal day with a big question mark lingering for the next day to Ooty.